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Glorious French Food: A Fresh Approach to the Classics by James Peterson

By James Peterson

From the James Beard award-winning writer of Sauces - a vintage on French food for today's cook

His award-winning books have received the compliment of The ny Times and Gourmet journal in addition to such culinary luminaries as cooks Daniel Boulud, Jeremiah Tower, and Alice Waters. Now James Peterson brings his super shops of culinary wisdom, power, and mind's eye to this clean and encouraging examine the vintage dishes of French food. With a fresh, broadminded strategy that embraces varied French cooking styles-from wonderful eating to bistro-style cooking, from hearty local fare to nouvelle cuisine-Peterson makes use of fifty "foundation" French dishes because the springboard to getting ready quite a few similar dishes. In his artistic palms, the vintage Moules à l. a. marinière evokes the pleasant Miniature Servings of Mussels with Sea Urchin Sauce and Mussel Soup with Garlic Puree and Saffron, whereas the undying Duck à l'orange offers upward push to the delicate Salad of Sautéed or Grilled Duck Breasts and Sautéed Duck Breasts with vintage Orange Sauce. via those recipes, Peterson finds the underlying rules and connections in French cooking that release readers to plan and get ready new dishes all alone. With hundreds of thousands recipes and striking colour images all through, Glorious French Food offers everybody who enjoys cooking entry to crucial French cooking traditions and methods and is helping them provide unfastened reign to the instinct and spontaneity that lie within the heart-and stomach-of each sturdy cook dinner.

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Simmer gently for 15 minutes. Most of the mushrooms won’t be submerged in liquid, but don’t worry; you’re actually steaming, not poaching, them. qx•final 7/26/02 6:04 PM Page 9 P A R M E S A N C H E E S E : Despite having more than four hundred cheeses of their own, French cooks often use Parmesan because of its forthright flavor and because it is dry and won’t become stringy when cooked. Unfortunately, most of what’s called Parmesan cheese in the United States is not authentic and in fact barely resembles the original.

Hold the ladle so that the top of its bowl is almost level with the liquid and, while tilting it just slightly toward the edge of the saucepan, make a circular motion with the ladle, skimming off the fat where it accumulates against the edge. As braising liquids and broths simmer, they typically throw off more fat and sometimes froth, so it’s best to wait 5 or 10 minutes—or even longer in making slowly reduced liquids such as glace de viande—between skimmings. If skimming the fat off hot liquids with a ladle sounds too tricky, you can use a degreasing cup.

And qualities that make wine connoisseurs scoff, such as low acidity, too high an alcohol content, fatness, or clumsiness, are often the qualities that make wine good in a sauce or a stew. Red wines for cooking should be full-bodied and deeply colored, with low acidity and little or no tannin. Alcohol content makes no difference, since the alcohol cooks off anyway. qx•final 7/26/02 6:04 PM Page 11 READ THIS FIRST 11 wines (such as Burgundy, in fact) give sauce an insipid, unappetizing milk of magnesia–like color, and red wines with high acidity (essential in the glass but not in the pot) make overly tart sauces because the acid is concentrated during reduction.

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